FAQ
Copper Moonshine Still FAQ
An expert knowledge base for copper moonshine stills—from setup, leaks, thumpers and worm condensers to mash, proof, cleaning, safety, and warranty. Use filters or search to find answers quickly. Always follow local/federal laws.
Am I Cheating On My Country By Buying a Stainless Still?
YES!
Do I Really Want to Buy a Vevor?
NO!
What is the “operating range,” and why add 20 °F after first drip?
The first drip marks the onset of sustained vapor. Adding ~20 °F gives a practical range where vapor flow is steady and water carryover is minimized; maintaining that band makes condenser control easier and stabilizes collection. On condenser management: Difford’s Guide.
How should I heat the still—propane burner or electric element?
Both work: propane offers quick response, while submerged electric is steady and indoor-friendly (with proper ventilation and electrical safety). The key is gradual ramp-up and small adjustments to avoid smearing cuts or puking.
Should I run the thumper dry at first?
Yes—run the thumper empty while you learn the system’s behavior. Later, charge it with low wines or botanicals to raise proof or add flavor (use modest volumes to avoid flooding). Role of thumpers/doublers: Whisky Advocate.
What does a thumper actually do in a pot still system?
A thumper is a secondary pot that incoming vapor bubbles through, providing a partial redistillation and increasing ABV; it can also carry flavor from the charge. Proper vapor routing and fill height are critical to avoid entrainment and surging. Overview: Whisky Advocate.
How do I keep the worm (coil condenser) cold enough?
Aim for steady inlet temperature and adequate turnover—warm water reduces condensation efficiency and can drop proof. Recirculating with ice or throttling fresh cold water keeps the worm tub in its sweet spot. Worm-tub management: Difford’s Guide.
What is a safe fill level for the pot to avoid puking?
Leave at least 20–30% headspace, more for foamy mashes (e.g., molasses/rum). Strain solids and ramp heat slowly; anti-foam agents can help in stubborn cases.
Which way should seams and thermometer face?
Keep the thermometer visible on the left; align cap and pot seams so interlocks are tight under clamp pressure. Orientation doesn’t change chemistry, but it improves ergonomics, sealing, and repeatability.
How do I pressure-test my setup safely?
Never pressurize a still. Instead, do a hot water/vinegar run at low heat and check for weeping joints and vapor smells; fix any leaks before alcohol runs. Vent paths must always remain open.
Do I need active ventilation?
Yes—distilling generates ethanol vapors; run in a well-ventilated space away from open ignition sources. Electric setups also require proper GFCI protection and dry, non-slip floors.
How fast should product drip or stream?
For pot-still quality, target a broken stream to fast drips during hearts; slower for precise cuts, slightly faster for stripping runs. Over-driving heat smears fractions and can lower sensory quality.
Do I need to water-test before my first alcohol run?
Yes—do a cleaning run (water or water/vinegar) to flush flux residues and check seals. This protects flavor and helps you learn heat response without risking a batch.
Where should I measure temperature—pot, vapor, or worm?
Vapor-path temperature near the lyne arm is most informative for onset and operating range. Pot temp lags and depends on wash composition; worm water temp indicates condenser performance.
What accessories are must-haves for reliable runs?
A hydrometer/alcoholmeter set, extra thread-lock tape, spare gaskets/clamps, and a backup thermometer. These reduce downtime and safeguard quality mid-run.
Why choose copper over stainless for pot stills?
Copper binds/reacts with sulfur compounds, reducing off-odors and improving spirit quality; it also distributes heat evenly. Stainless is durable and cheaper, but adding copper in the vapor path is recommended for flavor. See: DIY Distilling, Whiskipedia, Peer-review (sulfur).
Can stainless stills make great spirits if I add copper?
Yes—packing copper mesh or plates in the vapor path helps scrub sulfides and elevates cleanliness, narrowing the copper–stainless gap for pot runs. Example discussion: Article and maker practice.
What thickness/grade of copper do you use?
Heavy-gauge 20 oz, 22 ga, 99.9% copper formed and soldered with 95/5 lead-free solder; flux is water-soluble. This balance of mass and workability supports longevity and heat stability.
Why does copper location in the still matter?
Sulfur removal is most effective where vapor contact is highest—neck/lyne arm/condenser. Geometry and surface condition influence catalytic effects. Lab perspective: Whiskipedia, review.
What’s the purpose of the worm vs. shell-and-tube condenser?
Worms offer traditional character and thermal inertia; shell-and-tube is compact and easy to tune. Either can condense vapors effectively if cooling water is well-controlled. Worm tub behavior: Difford’s Guide.
Do you use lead-free materials?
Yes—95/5 lead-free solder and food-grade, water-soluble flux. Copper sheet is 99.9% purity. Joints are finished and rinse-tested prior to shipment.
Is your unit a complete kit or DIY?
We sell both: Complete Units (ready to run) and DIY kits (some soldering/assembly required). All components are interchangeable for future upgrades.
What size is best for beginners?
The 6-gallon copper pot still balances manageable charge size with quality learning runs, short heat-up times, and easy cuts.
Can the still make essential oils and distilled water?
Yes—adjust condenser flow and botanical charge for essential oils/hydrosols; for distilled water, run with clean water feed and collect into sterile containers. Copper/stainless for botanicals: overview.
Where are your stills made?
Hand-built in Nashua, New Hampshire, USA, by American craftsmen using domestic materials.
What gaskets/clamps should I keep on hand?
Keep spare sanitary gaskets sized to your ferrules and at least one extra high-quality clamp; replace gaskets periodically for perfect seals and faster setup.
Does copper corrode with acidic washes?
Copper forms protective oxides and is generally resistant, but long acid contact can tarnish; a periodic citric-acid passivation followed by thorough rinse restores luster. General copper behavior: Still In Cask.
Output stopped mid-run—what now?
Verify heat input, check thumper level (not flooded), and confirm the worm water is cold. Small power bumps often restart steady flow; if not, shut down, cool, and inspect for blockages.
My spirit has a sulfur/egg note—how to fix?
Add more copper surface in the vapor path (mesh/packing) and ensure adequate reflux time via gentle heat. A polishing run with tighter cuts often clears residual sulfides. Copper & sulfur removal: DIY Distilling, review.
Low proof on a spirit run—what are the usual suspects?
Warm condenser water, excessive heat (smearing), or a weak low-wines charge. Slow the run, chill the worm, and ensure your low wines are concentrated enough before spirit cuts.
Puking/foam into the condenser—prevention?
Leave headspace, strain mash, and ramp heat gently. Add a small antifoam if necessary and reduce thumper charge volume for foamy recipes.
Condenser huffing/knocking noises—safe?
That’s vapor collapsing irregularly; normalize with steadier coolant flow and a slight heat reduction. Aim for continuous condensation without surge.
Vapor smell around joints—what to do?
Immediately reduce heat and reseal weeping joints with paste or re-seat the gasket. Never operate with detectable vapor leaks near ignition sources.
My thumper overfills and kills output—why?
Charge volume too high, entrainment from over-firing, or a restricted outlet. Start with a modest charge, use gentle heat, and ensure tubing/fittings are clear. Thumper basics: Whisky Advocate.
Tails come in too early—how to push them back?
Slow the run, cool the condenser more, and consider a smaller boiler charge. Cleaner fermentation and a second spirit run can sharpen fraction separation.
Hearts taste thin—improve body?
Increase copper contact for sulfur cleanup, collect slightly slower, and widen hearts cautiously while tasting. Oak rest and proofing down in stages also build mid-palate.
Hot spots on the pot scorch mash—tips?
Use a diffuser plate or switch to an immersion element for steadier heat. Keep solids low and stir gently during warming if your recipe allows.
Can I run back-to-back without cooldown?
It’s safer to cool and reset seals between runs. Continuous heat can loosen paste and gaskets, increasing leak risk and changing cut behavior.
Why does condenser temperature affect flavor?
Cooler, steady condensation improves proof stability and reduces volatile carry-over; running too warm risks smearing and solventy notes. Worm inlet/outlet management: Difford’s Guide.
Copper turned dark/green—normal?
Oxides/salts form with use and storage; a citric-acid rinse returns bright copper. Always rinse thoroughly and dry to prevent verdigris buildup.
Why do some runs smell solventy even with clean mash?
Excessive heat or too-warm condenser can carry heads deeper; tighten heat control and allow more copper contact time. A second, slower spirit run often fixes it.
Is methanol a big risk in typical fruit/grain mashes?
Methanol is produced in small amounts (notably with pectin), but good practice—discarding foreshots and making conservative cuts—keeps risk low. Focus on fermentation health and proper fractioning. Overview: article.
How do I rescue a dull spirit?
Blend with cleaner hearts from another run, re-distill as a spirit run with slower takeoff, or rest on oak and proof in stages. Keep notes to replicate improvements.
Why is my proof reading inconsistent during collection?
Temperature compensation matters—alcoholmeters are standardized (often 20 °C). Use correction tables or chill to spec before reading. Reference tables: NIST Circular 19.
I have copper taste/blue tint—what causes it?
Acidic wash contact + residual copper salts can leach color/taste. Do a citric-acid cleaning run, rinse thoroughly, and avoid long acidic soaks pre-distillation.
Are plastic collection jars okay?
Use glass or stainless for hot/high-proof distillate; some plastics can leach or deform under ethanol. Food-safe silicone can be used for gaskets, not for prolonged spirit storage.
How do I know my condenser is too small?
Persistent vapor smell, hot output, or inability to keep up at modest heat indicate undersizing. Reduce heat or upgrade condenser surface/flow capacity.
What is mash and typical ABV?
Mash is fermented solution from grain, sugar, fruit, or molasses; typical ranges are 1–12% for grain/fruit, higher for sugar washes. Balance flavor goals with yeast health and temperature control.
Best fermentation temperature range?
Most distiller’s yeasts prefer 75–85 °F; cooler ferments are cleaner but slower. Maintain steady temps to avoid fusels and stuck fermentation.
How do I know fermentation is finished?
Gravity is stable for 2–3 days and near target (often ≤1.000 for dry sugar/grain washes). Use a hydrometer and taste for dryness before distilling.
Sediment/solids—should I rack or run on the grain?
Stripping on the grain boosts flavor but risks scorching; clear/rack for spirit runs to minimize off-notes. A brew bag or filter helps keep solids out of the pot.
Do nutrients matter?
Yes—especially for sugar washes with low FAN. Balanced nutrients and pH control improve attenuation and reduce sulfur formation that copper must later scrub.
Fruit mashes and pectin—methanol concerns?
Pectin breakdown releases small methanol amounts; use pectic enzymes intelligently and make conservative heads cuts. Good process control keeps products safe. General primer: article.
How clear should the wash be before spirit run?
Clearer is easier on flavor and avoids scorch; cold-crash, fine, or filter if needed. For pot-still character, a hint of turbidity is acceptable—avoid thick lees.
What starting gravity is practical for pot stills?
1.060–1.080 is a sweet spot for many grain/sugar washes: sensible fermentation time, manageable stress, and good flavor development without solventy notes.
Do I need to degas before distilling?
Not required, but CO₂ breakout can cause foaming; a gentle stir or rest period reduces surprises at heat-up—especially on small boilers.
Can I reuse yeast cakes/backset?
Yes—sour-mash style backset adds continuity and pH buffering; don’t over-acidify the next mash. Refresh yeast periodically to avoid stressed off-flavors.
How do I read an alcoholmeter correctly?
Use in distilled spirit (no sugar), at the calibration temperature (often 20 °C / 68 °F). Apply temperature correction tables when readings are off-spec. Tables: NIST Circular 19.
How should I make cuts on a pot still?
Collect in small jars across the run, label proofs/temps, and blend by aroma/taste the next day. Heads show solvent/pear drops, hearts are clean and sweet, tails grow earthy/oily—cut positions vary by recipe and takeoff rate.
Expected proof from a single pot-still run?
Many hearts fall around 120–160 proof depending on mash, heat management, and condenser temperature. A second spirit run or thumper use increases average proof.
Proofing down: why in stages?
Stepwise dilution (and resting between steps) reduces saponification haze and helps flavors integrate. Chill and filter if needed to remove precipitates.
Hydrometer vs. alcoholmeter—what’s the difference?
Hydrometers read sugar density in mash/beer (SG); alcoholmeters read ethanol percentage in distilled spirit. Use the right tool at the right temperature. NIST tables.
Temperature correction—do I really need it?
Yes—both hydrometers and alcoholmeters are calibrated; 5–10 °F off can skew readings. Use conversion charts or cool samples before measuring. Reference.
Parrot or test cylinder—what’s recommended?
A parrot gives continuous ABV but can smear transient changes; a cylinder with spot samples is slower but precise for learning cuts. Many distillers use both depending on the run stage.
Why does copper reduce sulfur but not fix bad ferments?
Copper helps scrub sulfides in the vapor path, improving aroma, but it cannot undo stressed-yeast fusels or contamination. Start with clean, healthy fermentation. Review, Whiskipedia.
What’s a good cleaning routine after runs?
Rinse hot, then do a periodic citric-acid pass (quick!) to dissolve oxides; rinse until neutral and dry fully. Store with open vents and remove gaskets to prevent compression set.
Do I need a vinegar cleaning run on new equipment?
Yes—water/vinegar removes fabrication residues/flux and confirms condenser performance before spirits touch copper. Follow with a water run to flush any acid.
How often to replace gaskets and clamps?
Inspect every few runs; replace if flattened, crazed, or odorous. Keep a spare set to avoid downtime mid-production.
Storage tips to prevent tarnish and odors?
Dry completely, air out, and store in a cool, low-humidity area. A breathable cover prevents dust without trapping moisture.
Can I use abrasive pads on copper?
Avoid aggressive abrasives that scratch and harbor soils; soft pads and acid passivation keep surfaces smooth for easier sanitation.
Best way to descale condenser coils?
Circulate warm citric solution through the worm, then flush until neutral. Scale and biofilm reduce heat transfer and should be removed promptly.
Green/blue deposits—are they dangerous?
Copper salts/verdigris are not acceptable in product contact; remove with acid rinse and verify clean, colorless rinse water before the next use.
How do I polish without contaminating?
Use food-safe polishes on exterior only; interior should be limited to acid passivation and hot water rinse. Any polish residue must be kept out of vapor path.
Citric vs. acetic for cleaning—when to use which?
Citric is gentle, effective on oxides, and less odorous—great for routine. Vinegar is fine for initial cleaning runs but rinse thoroughly to avoid carryover.
Do I need to passivate copper like stainless?
Copper naturally forms protective oxides; brief citric washes restore a clean, reactive surface without heavy passivation protocols used for stainless.
How long before I receive my order?
Production averages ~10 business days; typical delivery is 3–6 weeks depending on season/materials. We ship from Nashua, NH in plain packaging.
How do I check order status?
Call 1-603-997-6786 or email Owner@TheDistilleryNetwork.com with your order number for fastest support.
What’s your Lifetime Warranty?
First 30 days: we cover shipping both ways if dissatisfied. After 30 days: you cover shipping; we repair/replace as needed. Full terms: Lifetime Warranty and Shipping & Returns.
Is the shipping box discreet?
Yes—plain boxes, securely packed; no product words on the exterior.
Can I return a unit?
Returns follow our policy timelines/fees. Contact support first so we can troubleshoot; many “issues” are quick setup fixes that save you time and shipping.
Do you ship internationally?
Yes—duties/taxes and local regulations are the buyer’s responsibility. Verify import legality and voltage/plug standards before purchase.
Can I upgrade to a different condenser/thumper later?
Our systems are modular; you can add/replace a thumper or swap condensers with matching ferrules. Contact us for compatible parts.
Lead time spikes—what causes delays?
Copper supply, seasonal demand, and custom work can extend queues. We’ll communicate proactively and offer alternatives when possible.
Do you offer rush builds?
Limited rush capacity is sometimes available; call for current schedule and expediting options.
How are damages handled?
Photograph packaging and the unit immediately; contact us within 48 hours so we can initiate a carrier claim and send replacements fast.
Is home alcohol distilling legal where I live?
In the U.S., distilling spirits at home is federally prohibited without proper permits (wine/beer differ). Always consult current law. See the U.S. TTB page: TTB official guidance.
What about recent Texas litigation on at-home distilling?
A 2024 Texas ruling challenged the federal ban for certain parties, and appeals followed; law is evolving and not universally applicable. Always verify the latest status before any alcohol production. Coverage: Reuters, Houston Chronicle.
Fire safety basics when operating a still
Treat high-proof ethanol as a flammable liquid: no open flames near vapor leaks, keep extinguishers handy, and ensure venting. Store fuel per guidance. Standards: OSHA 1910.106, NFPA 30.
Can you help me obtain permits?
We can point you to public resources and trade groups; permitting is jurisdiction-specific and time-sensitive. Consult local authorities and qualified counsel for compliance.
Do you report customer information to the government?
We respect customer privacy and do not disclose data except as required by law (e.g., lawful requests or compliance audits).
Is it safe to distill indoors?
With electric heat, proper ventilation, and no ignition sources, many operate indoors safely. Always monitor for leaks, use GFCI protection, and keep exits clear.
What PPE do you recommend?
Heat-resistant gloves, eye protection, closed-toe shoes, and snug sleeves. Keep hair and loose clothing away from burners and rotating pumps.
What’s the safest way to test for vapor leaks?
Your nose is sensitive—if you smell solvent, reduce heat and reseal. Use soapy water on cold fittings; never use flames for leak checks.
How do I dispose of foreshots and dunder?
Foreshots are flammable—store in labeled glass and dispose per local hazardous-waste rules. Dunder/backset can be composted/diluted depending on pH and local regs.
Can I sell essential oils or hydrosols I make?
Often yes, but labeling and cosmetic/therapeutic claims may trigger specific regulations. Check local commerce rules before selling.
Sources & further reading: TTB • Reuters (Texas ruling) • Houston Chronicle (appeal status) • Difford’s Guide • Whiskipedia • Sulfur review (PMC) • DIY Distilling (copper benefits) • NIST Alcohol/SG tables • OSHA 1910.106 • NFPA 30
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