PARROT HEAD FINAL
We're going to introduce the talking proof and trail hydrometer better known as the parrot head. Now we can offer the proof and trail hydrometer the talking proof and trail hydrometer to our community. I do understand why there is an r&d research and development arm of most major corporations. Many failures, but we have a resounding success. I had the test in every environment and all other kinds of things. Is different wiring configurations and different adaptations. We've got it now to where it is the simplest application and it will measure the proof of your spirits as they are being produced out of your still, and they will also audibly tell you what proof is.
So let's get on wiring. You could use nano, or you could use the mega, it doesn't matter which board you use, they all load and work the same way. The wiring configurations are a little bit different. I gonna wire it together it only takes a couple of minutes. I'll go through it quickly at least nine-volt battery which you supply and the dongle that we use to plug into the nano to make it work. And will operate for seven hours off with one battery which is phenomenal. What we do not create vied in the box obviously, because of its size is the physical makeup of your parrot. In the brewhouse model the parent they use a one and a half-inch copper still collection portion and that fits perfectly inside and a half-inch PVC black PVC pipe.
I've added a small sleeve that goes to sleeve. And you'll notice how straight up and down that is because it's shimmed up on the inside just a little bit. I got the sleeve, I've got the one cut out for the next one and a half-inch drain pipe that goes underneath the sink. And they make one end of it just a little bit, just a little bit larger than one and a half inches so that you can put another one in and it just enough to shim it up. I had to hone out just a little bit so it would fit snug, and it left me with just enough to go in.
I have 245 millimeters in length so I measure it in millimeters of 245 millimeters in length and the reason that we measured it in millimeters was that our proof and trail hydrometer the audible portion and the nano measures the distance and move millimeters. It's such a finite measurement, it measures in millimeters the distance between the top of the column of your column and the top of your proof and trail hydrometer. So you are responsible for the portion, there's no way that I can account for each and every individual parrot itself. And then the last but not least is the proof and trail hydrometer itself.
The nano itself, it's already attached to the board and I've got all of the screw terminals on both sides, and they correspond to the individual pins that are on both sides of the nano. So all we're going to do now is attach wires to each one of their respective pins that are needed in order for the thing to operate. So it's relatively straightforward. Our time of flight sensor has six places for wires, but we're only going to use four then we're going to use the ground, the 3.3 volts, the SDA, and the SC l pins. All you need to know is the time of flight sensor, your emitter, and receiver these two things on the very end in this particular case, because it's By Sparkfun, they make a quick connection, which is a small cable that just sticks in and eliminates the four connections.
The only thing that we really need to know is ground well the ground in the brown one. So we'll take the brown wire, the very first brown wire will find the ground pin which is next to the last pin on the side and it will just slide in and just be careful just in the screw down. We have the red pin
And the red wire in the three-point three volts that is required in order to run your tunnel of the light sensor. Connect it and then the two other pins, we have the CL and the S da and SC L is the yellow one. SDA happens to be the orange one in this particular case.
Remember it makes no difference in the color. Yours may be different colors may be blue and green. It wouldn't matter as long as you know where it originates and where it should terminate. We'll take the FCL in the NCL. Go to pin number five make sure you had to. Don't just slide it in and loosen up the screw, then screw it down. If you don't loosen the screw, there's no way to get in then I've got a four already loose. Slide in the SDA into a four and then they just stick then you screw them down.
Once you've done, just set aside because the next step is to run the one runs off a three-point. Your time of flight sensor runs off of 3.3 volts. The two items run off of five volts. So you have a five-volt port and you have a 3.3-volt port. Now we've already used a 3.3 volt port for our time of flight sensor. What I'm going to do now is use the pigtail, the spliced or split however you want to describe it, power cable and ground cable. I'm going to connect the two together. Let's take the red cable. If you look on your lm 386, you'll notice that Vcc is your very first pin and it's marked that way. Then you'll take the other lead and you'll pick up your computer or micro SD card reader and connect that to the second pin because the one that's more Vcc. Now both require five volts. So we have a five-volt lead. That goes to the five volts and your five-volt pin is located way down.
Not far from the ground pin. As a matter of fact, there's one in between that if you're not careful, you'll connect it to the wrong one and wonder why it won't work. Just be careful, you're not going to hurt it. Just be careful. Connect that to the five volts, screw that down. Now that leaves us with the ground of course we have another pigtail and it is black on the ground. Of course the one goes to the Nao on your three 386. You have two grounding pins. You can use either one of them it doesn't matter than the other one is the very first pin on your micro SD card reader you'll find another ground pin on the opposite side of your board.
You get the right pin into the right screw then screw that down. We have the power that goes to our l'm 386 amplifier and goes to our micro SD card reader. We need one wire because we're going to finish up the amplifier and the amplifier only needs one War for its source that goes to the end.
And that in the pin is located between the hot in the ground. Now the wire is going to D 10. d 10 is located, that's 12 1110 the third wire down. Slide it in then screw it down. We have four connections on our SD card Now we've just got all the information going back and forth. You have MIOSMO, si sck, and si es. You don't know what they mean, usually know where they are. You've only got four wires left it doesn't matter which color goes where. So let's start by connecting all four wires to the SD card reader doesn't matter which ones go where the one plugs in. I have green wire
And it actually on my m i s o pin, it goes to D 12 that is d 12. C. I just attached that to d 12 d 12 then screw that down. The M o si and happens to be the white wire. That one goes to D 11, next wire is just this particular case just happens to be yellow. The yellow is the SC K and r s ck goes to pin number 13 that's on the opposite side, the very first pin or the very first screw terminal next to 3.3 volts. I've got one wire left and this one is CS, which actually means channel select.
We're going to the one goes to D four. We'll just walk over to find D four slash Did it the day before. We're wired, you've got the entire audible proof and trail hydrometer already programmed. All we need to do now is add power.
When we do 177 proof fighting. Now all of it will be packaged up in a box. It'll show up and remember you'll get this. You need to provide all of that. And when you marry them together is a beautiful thing and it will run all by itself now, before you even start to write in it. Many different ways in which to wire. If you're trying to make thing a whole lot louder, you could put a larger amplifier on. You could do a whole lot of different things.
You could put a button to turn the speaker on, turn the speaker off. It's up to you how you adapt your system and how you make it work.
The only thing left to do is place the sensor where it will sense the top of your hydrometer. Remember, your tube must be 245 millimeters because it's already programmed for the length. That's primarily your proof and trail hydrometer needs to have a hat on top.