1. Open your box.

2. Place pot on a table with temperature gage towards left hand side.

3. Take the smallest piece of the thumper with drain plug facing towards you and put to the right of the pot.

4. Take the worm which is attached to coil and put to the right of the thumper.

5. Take the cap and insert it to the top of the pot, the bottom of the cap connects by spinning the spin ttings to the left side of the thumper.

A) The seam on the top of cap should interlock with seam of the back of the pot.

 

6. When connecting the spin fitting, if they should leak, use thread locking tape or wheat paste. The unit also comes with an adapter piece which is copper, and it connects to the top of right hand side of the thumper and goes to the worm spin fittings accordingly.

7. Congratulations! You have successfully assembled your Moonshine Still but you still need to know how to use it.

8. You need a burner or any source of flame, you could also have a submerged heating element. Once you have a burner and propane you need some MASH. Mash is what you put in the still to get liquor.

9. MASH= Fermented materials that can range anywhere between 1% to 35% ABV (Alcohol By Volume). The higher the ABV, the more alcohol you will be able to pull out. The goal is to take out as much alcohol out of the mash with your Moonshine Still.

VISIT: WWW.MASH.RECIPES FOR SOME EASY RECIPES TO GET STARTED.

You are going to need a Hydrometer, which measures the alcohol content of the Mash, ‘cause it’s always nice to know what your alcohol is in the beginning and the end of the process. There are two different types of Hydrometers, one to use for low proof (of Mash) and one for high proof. Visit our accessory page to purchase more items from us.

10. Strain Mash for any hard materials and pour into pot. You are going to need to seal the cap of the pot with “old school” Wheat Paste or Black Electrical Tape, make sure to seal the unit well. The thumper is a double purification unit, it is not a necessity. We want you to run the Thumper dry (meaning, do not add anything in it) until you know what you are doing. All our units are interchangeable, which means you can take the Thumper out and run it directly from the pot to the worm with the coil.

11. Your Worm, the one with the coil, needs constant ow of cool water (we recommend continuously filling it with ice) you can also get an upgraded Thumper and Worm Kit with any of our units which will give you 2 hoses to run water in and out.

12. Put a flame underneath the Pot until the unit starts to “work”; as soon as the Worm is dripping product, write the temperature down then add 20 degrees to it, “That is your Operating Range”. Always keep still within this range to make sure H2O does not go into your product.

13. Your Thumper will ll up with Liquid and eventually stop the distillation process. You will need to disregard the Thumper’s content or save and re-run in your next batch.

14. Do Not just go and start drinking what comes out of the unit. Please do the appropriate amount of research to make sure you disregard the appropriate amount of your distillate before drinking.

NOW YOU KNOW HOW TO PROPERLY USE YOUR NEW MOONSHINE STILL. VISIT OUR FACEBOOK PAGE.

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YOU SOLDER BOOKITLET: A STEP BY STEP GUIDE ON HOW TO MAKE MOONSHINE STILL OUT OF OF OUR MOONSHINE KITS FOR SALE

 

INTRODUCTION

Are you up for a challenge?The EZ KIT you just purchased comes with a challenge; this is not a kit for amateurs, but for the “DIY” kind of guy or girl.Assembling the EZ KIT is not easy; you have to attach, clamp and solder each piece yourself. We have already cut, bent, rolled and embossed the copper for you to get you started.Now it’s up to you to rise up to the challenge.How rewarding would it be to be able to BRAG to all your friends and family that you actually built a Copper Moonshine Still yourself! Or better yet, build it with the help of a friend or family member as a quality time project.We included this BooKitLet (yeah, that’s what we called this awesome thing) with very detailed instructions on how to get your Still ready to rock. How- ever you decide to tackle this, we promise you that you will not be alone along the way, we are just a phone call away if you have questions!

1-(603) 997-6786

 

We also have an instruction video on  for you to follow along as well. So, turn to the page with a list of Tools Needed and get ready to build your own Copper Moonshine Still!

GOOD LUCK MOONSHINE KIT ROCKSTAR.

KITS INSTRUCTIONS

PARTS INCLUDED:

 

 TOOLS NEEDED

* Gloves and eye goggles

* Metal Snips for Custom Cuts

* Small Ball Hammer

* Metal File for Sharp Edges

* Propane Torch Head

* Propane tank (small, disposable)

* Fire Extinguisher and other safety supplies

* Long Flat Head Screwdriver

* Step Drill Bit

* Deburring Tool (if needed)

* Anything made of metal to hold up the bottom of the pot from the inside Or a 5 Gallon bucket lined with tin foil

(to hold circle bottom piece into place when fitting it)

* Clamps to hold the seams together when soldering (Have different length sizes on hand)

* Tin Foil

 

POT BODY ASSEMBLY

The Pot has two sides of the seam: a sharp side and a tucked seam side.

The Sharp side goes on the inside of the pot, it tucks under the folded over side.

Start soldering inside the pot seams. Use the heat and follow with the solder, you’ll heat up the copper to melt the solder.

Go slow, making sure the solder drips into the gaps of the seam. Your first run of soldering is to fill the gaps, you will do a second run along the seam to make it look good.

Insert the pot circle and use something to push the circle up from the inside, as to keep it in place while you solder the circle. Same as with the pot seams solder slowly; making sure there are no gaps, circle has to be snug.

 

Let it Cool and take the clamps off.

Thumper comes with two copper circles. One of these circles has two drilled holes; this one is the top circle. Same as the pot, insert bottom circle and solder.

Turn over and insert the top, use a tool to pull up the edges to solder nice and flat.

CAP KIT ASSEMBLY

Clamp and solder the open cylinder (cap bottom) just as you did with the pot body. The bottom piece of the Cap has two lines, a beveled line and an embossed line. Embossed line is under beveled line.

 

 

Flux the seams of Cap Top and Bottom; Insert the Cap top on Bottom with beveled line on top, match the seams as these interlock. Get the tightest fit you can, flux seams again and start soldering as you did with the pot.Make Two runs of solder inside the cap pieces (you can always do a small solder line on the outside for added security).Included is a flat square of copper, this is your Cap Tip Top; you can cut this into a circle to fit the cap top.Using the top piece of the cap as a guide, draw a circle with marker on the inside to make a stencil of the right size.

 

 

Cut the circle shape, leaving about a 1/8” extra when you cut, this will help make sure the circle you cut is not too small for the cap. Fit the circle into the top of Cap Kit, use something inside to drive the circle up and keep it in place while you solder (any metal cylinder would work).

 

Flux the seams along circle and solder.

 

CONE ASSEMBLY

 

As we saw with the pot body, the Cone also has two sides: a sharp side and a folded over side. The folded over side is always on the outside, covering the sharp edge side.

Flux the sharp side of the seam on the side facing towards you, flux the seam of the folded over side as well, just as we did with the pot.

Match the bottom of cone seams first and when you fold the seams over each other, leave about 2” overhang on the bottom and about ¼” on top to be able to fit the clamps (Don’t clamp the seam, you will be soldering the seam).

Clamp the top and bottom and use a longer handle clamp to clamp the middle of the cone, we do not want any gaps. Close the gap well so the copper sides are touching each other.

 

 

Flux and solder from the inside, make sure to fill the gaps well with the solder. Solder in two runs: the first run is to fill the gaps well; the second run is to make it look nice and even.

Wait for the solder to cool, remove clamps.

For this step, you will need an object such as a metal stand, metal object or a 5 gallon bucket lined with tin foil (to prevent melting), this will help you hold the cone into place while you insert the pot body and solder.

Flip cone upside down on the bucket (holder) and fit the pot into the cone and

match up the seams.

Apply pressure to the top of the pot before soldering, to make gaps tighter. (you may want to have another person pushing down to make sure gaps are tight, or you can use a weight as well).

 

 

Flux along the seam of Cone and Pot and solder, go slow, in 3” stretches.

 

ASSEMBLY CAP TO CONE

Just as we did with the Pot to Cone assembly, attach Cap to small end of cone making sure the seams match (these should interlock).

 

Have someone help you keeping into place, or have something holding the Cap in place (make sure whatever you use keeps the two pieces steady!)

Flux and solder leaving no gaps. Use low heat, do not overheat and do not force the solder into the seams. Make it so the solder flows naturally and the flame and the flux do all the work.

 

 

WORM ASSEMBLY

Same process as with the Pot’s Body.

Fit bottom circle onto the worm’s body, flux and solder.

The top circle of worm will have two holes, use a tool to get the top circle up so you can solder in place.

 

All these pieces will be in the box. The plug and bushing go on the thumper or anywhere you would like to install.